Tree Pruning

Tree Pruning in Wanaka

Whatever your requirements, be it for reasons of form, light, safety or aesthetics we want to provide a tree pruning solution for you.

Request a free quote 027 516 6690

An arborist standing in a freshly pollarded tree pointing out the cuts, a second man laughing in the foreground, mountains behind

What pruning does

Pruning is about the tree's future, not just today's tidy-up

Good pruning sets a tree up for the next twenty years. It decides where the weight sits, how much light reaches the ground and your windows, and whether a branch will still be there after the next nor'wester. Done well, you barely notice it has happened. Done badly, with big flush cuts and topped leaders, the tree answers with a thicket of weak regrowth and a lot of decay.

We can formatively prune your young trees to establish a desirable shape and give them the best chance in life. For older trees there is a range of options, and we will tell you which one suits the tree in front of us rather than selling you the biggest job.

Looking up into a big willow, a climber roped in among its branches against a blue sky

The pruning options

These are the jobs we are most often asked for. The right one depends on the species, the age of the tree and what you need from it.

Crown lifting

Lift those lower branches to allow more light through, clear a driveway or path, or open up a view across the lawn.

Crown thinning

Thin out the crown so light and wind pass through the canopy instead of pushing against it, without changing the tree's outline.

Weight reduction

Weight reduce extended limbs to minimise risk of failure, shortening the long heavy branches back to a suitable side branch.

Crown reduction

Perform whole crown reductions to keep the tree at a suitable size for your garden while keeping its natural shape.

Deadwooding and pollarding

Remove dead and dying branches so that they don't pose any risk, and pollard trees that have out grown their space so they can be maintained at a practical size.

How a pruning job runs

Every job starts with a conversation under the tree.

A free look at the tree
We come out, look at the tree and the space around it, and ask what you want: more light, less mess, a safer tree, a better shape. You get a price before anything is booked.
The right cuts, in the right places
Pruning cuts are made back to a branch collar or a suitable side branch, so the tree can seal the wound. We advise against topping trees or leaving stubs, because both lead to weak regrowth and decay.
Clean up and mulch
The brush goes through the chipper on the day. Keep the mulch for your garden or we take it away. Larger wood can be cut into rounds for firewood.

What affects the price and timing

Three things set the price of a pruning job: the size and species of the tree, how much of it needs to come off, and how easy it is to get to. A young tree on an open lawn is an hour's work. A large, old deciduous tree hanging over a roof and a neighbour's fence needs a climber, a ground person and a careful plan for every limb.

Timing matters too. Deciduous trees are easiest to assess and prune when they are bare in winter, and many fruit and flowering trees have a season they should not be cut in. Evergreens and conifers are more forgiving. If a branch is dangerous, the right time is now, whatever the season, and we will say so.

If you are weighing up pruning against removing a tree altogether, our tree removal page explains when removal is the honest answer. Where a tree has a weak fork or a heavy limb that is worth keeping, bracing and cabling can work alongside a weight reduction.

Tree pruning questions

How much can you take off a tree at once?

Less than most people expect. A tree feeds itself through its leaves, so removing a large share of the canopy in one go starves it and triggers a flush of weak growth. A crown reduction keeps the tree's shape and takes a modest proportion off; if a tree needs to be much smaller than that, it may be the wrong tree for the spot.

When is the best time of year to prune?

It depends on the species. Deciduous trees are usually pruned when dormant in winter. Some stone fruit trees are better pruned in late summer to avoid disease. Hedges and conifers are trimmed in the growing season. Dead, broken or dangerous branches can be removed at any time.

Will pruning stop my tree dropping leaves on the roof?

Crown lifting and reducing the branches over the roof will cut the amount of litter a great deal, but a tree in leaf will always drop something. If the goal is a roof with nothing over it at all, that is a conversation about the whole tree.

Can you prune a tree that is close to power lines?

Work near power lines has its own safety rules and clearance distances, and the lines company often has to be involved. Tell us where the lines are when you get in touch and we will advise on what can be done and who needs to do it.

Do you prune fruit trees?

Yes, for shape and health or for maximum crop. Formative pruning of a young fruit tree is one of the best investments you can make in it. Ask about timing, because some fruit trees should not be cut in winter.

Trained for the job

Why use a qualified arborist

Anyone with a chainsaw can cut a branch off. Knowing which branch, where to cut it and how to get there safely is the trade. The New Zealand Arboricultural Association puts it plainly: arborists are trained and equipped to provide proper care, and tree work should only be done by people trained and equipped to work safely in trees.

Trees Company is a qualified and insured business with over 20 years in arboriculture across New Zealand, Australia and the UK. Call for a free consultation and we will tell you what your trees actually need.